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Remove 40 amp fuse toyota8/22/2023 The auction ended, then the seller made me a second chance offer to buy it for $22,900 so I did. The reserve was still in place, so I gave up. I bid $22,500 and found the reserve to be higher. It was white, which I like, and it had low miles and appeared to be in perfect shape.īut, it was in Baltimore, MD. It was the Sport model with 4 wheel drive. I guess after looking at over a hundred or more 4Runners I was getting kinda bleary eyed, and they were all starting to look alike because there was not a one of them that I did not want to a greater or lesser degree. So, I got on eBay and set up an email search where they email you when your particular search comes up with anything, and started getting all kinds of listings on eBay where someone was trying to get money for some kind'a 4Runner. Well, it all started just a few months ago, and it was just past Thanksgiving and, being full of turkey after having eaten a Thanksgiving dinner that just couldn't be beat (We had the Turducken from Louisiana this year) and thinking about hunting and fishin' and all kinds of groovy things, I was wanting a 4Runner. That is not an acceptable solution, but I'm thinking that if it is this difficult, it will cost me $150 to get the fuse changed at a dealer! And, if the mechanic has as much trouble as I did just putting the box back together, it could be worse. I actually soildered the broken fuse together in order to get my truck working reliably. I think I had the flashlight in my mouth. I finally managed to get it into the right spot by pulling it high with a pair of Channel-Lock pliars just over that corner with one hand and poking underneath it with a screwdriver with the other hand. The fuse holder block near the fender seemed to be bent underneath and would not go back into the same position that it came from, which meant that it was going to be sticking up out of the fuse box making it impossibe to put the lid on. So, I gave up and put it all back together. I could get to and remove the hex nut on the south side of the fuse (away from the lights), but the one on the north side was buried in the middle of the fuse holder block. I could clear the top of the box on the engine side, but not on the fender side. Pulling this assembly up was also pulling those cable bundles more taunt, and it was already tight with everything still in the fuse box. The two cable bundles entering the fuse box from the fender side were connected to the fuse holder block underneath. After releasing all of the locking tabs around the fuse holder block with a screwdriver inserted into the right spots, I could pull it up out of the fuse box to try to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse. Then I removed the plastic saddle clamp that held this positive wire to the side of the fuse holder block. This wire seemed to be from the positive side of the battery, so after removing the positive terminal from the battery, I then removed this wire from the fuse holder block. One of the cables on the engine side went to the top of the fuse holder block where it looped over a terminal stud secured with a hex nut. There were two large cable bundles entering the fuse box on the fender side, and two small cables on the engine side. Lifting the framework to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse wasn't easy. The fuse box within the engine compartment has in it a black plastic matrix or framework for holding the various fuses. I found the job of changing this fuse to be next to impossible! But, I didn't have any maintenance guide to help. Has anyone on this board tried to install a fuse in one of these vehicles, other than the fuses that slip in and out of friction contacts from the top? Since this fuse is 140 amps, it's prongs are secured tightly to their contactors by hex head nuts on studs passing through holes in the prongs on the fuse. Got the 140A Alt fuse to replace the broken one mentioned in the previous post. Just a follow up to the broken fuse story.
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